Nestled in the heart of Indonesia lies a spectacle in nature’s most vibrant colours – the Ijen Volcano Complex. Known for its blue fire, acidic turquoise-coloured Crater Lake and labour-intensive sulphur mining that paints a unique portrait of the region. My recent adventure to this breathtaking destination was nothing short of magical, an experience that truly amazed me at the beauty of the country. Accompanied by a friend, our journey began in the charming village of Licin, which served as our gateway to the wonders of Ijen.

Arriving in Licin: A Taste of Serenity

Our journey started with an overnight stay in the tranquil village of Licin. Surrounded by lush greenery, Licin offered us a peaceful retreat before our expedition. The village, located near Ijen, served as the perfect base for exploring the surrounding areas.

Licin offered us serenity and a chance to connect with the local culture. Engaging with the villagers, we discovered Licin’s warm hospitality that defines the village. Our journey included a delightful visit to a small restaurant, where we savoured mouth-watering local dishes while overlooking picturesque rice fields, with a beautiful view of the majestic Ijen volcano in the background. It was a lovely introduction to the incredible experience awaiting us.

Journey to Ijen: Scooters, Stars, and Excitement

The following day, fuelled by anticipation, we hopped onto our trusty scooters and embarked on the scenic route to Ijen. Driving on steep and curvy roads with fascinating views, we felt a thrill of excitement building as we approached our destination. Upon reaching Ijen, we settled into a cosy guesthouse located at the foot of the ascent, promising comfort and rest after our journey. In preparation for our ascent, we rented essential gear including gasmasks, flashlights and thick jackets. Equipped with the tools necessary to navigate the challenges of the climb, we eagerly awaited the moment when we would set foot on the mystical terrain of Ijen.

Chasing Blue Flames: A Night of Determination and Community at Ijen Volcano

The clock struck 2 am, and our journey beneath a canvas of twinkling stars to the summit of Ijen began. The ascent was an experience marked by determination, becoming notably steep at certain points along our way. With each step, the anticipation grew, guiding us through the darkness towards the blue flames that awaited us. After a challenging hour and a half, we reached the summit, followed by a 30-minute descent to the bank of the crater, where the mystical blue fire awaited. The surreal atmosphere, illuminated by its otherworldly glow of the blue flames, was nothing short of mesmerizing. Moments of amazement as the blue fire flickered before us, accompanied by the toxic acid fumes. It was a shared experience; hundreds of people, strangers who turned into companions, embarked on the summit with shared determination, chatting and connecting along the way, fostering a powerful sense of community among us all.

Encounters with friendly spirits: Local Guides and Sulphur Miners

During our hike, we had the privilege of engaging with local guides who generously shared their wisdom and stories. Their kindness added an enriching layer to our experience, highlighting the genuine hospitality of the Indonesian people.

Moreover, our journey led us to a chance encounter with a sulphur miner, a brave individual whose daily life revolved around the very heart of Ijen’s volcanic activity. Engaging in conversation with him, we learned about the challenges he faced and the significance of his work. The miner revealed to us he had dedicated 22 years of his life to climbing the volcano daily. What struck us deeply was the harsh reality of the wages of the miners, a testament to their determination despite the financial struggles they were facing. Some of these miners are carrying sulphur as heavy as 100 kg down the volcano in one hike. He shared with us the fact that he couldn’t afford a proper gas mask. Instead, he used a scarf wrapped around his face, as protection from the toxic smoke. His pursuit of sulphur, essential for supporting his family, showed the immense sacrifices he made. Their resilience in the face of such difficult challenges left us deeply moved. Captivated by his story, we took the opportunity to capture the moment through photographs, a powerful example of human strength amid nature’s challenges.

A Night to Remember

As dawn broke over Ijen, we began our descent, wrapping up our unforgettable journey. This place, with its unique beauty and friendly locals, had made its mark on me. It wasn’t just about the climb or the views; it was the entire experience – from the challenges faced to the stories shared, Ijen reminded me of the incredible wonders our planet has to offer and the genuine connections we can make while exploring.